Hearts and Arrows Diamond Education and Information
Before we begin, let us use the following definition: A diamond is a crystal, a prism that reflects light and disperses it. In other words this prism's facets are two way mirrors that: 1. Reflect light or 2. Allow light to pass through them.
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Because of diamond's refractive index, the pavilion (bottom of the diamond that comes to a point) needs to be cut at an exacting angle. If there is some slight deviation from this angle, the diamond begins to leak light and this affects the light return. The relationship between the crown and pavilion is also very important. We will see this in detail later. The Heart and Arrow pattern is analogous to all round stones, but if the diamonds have not been polished with super symmetry and well within the ideal parameters according to AGS standards, they will not be correctly defined. In addition, they take on a different form, shape and size. Just because a diamond is cut to ideal proportions with an AGS0 does not mean that it will exhibit a crisp and true hearts and arrows pattern. In addition to being ideal, the diamond has to have super symmetry – where all the angles and facets have to be perfect. Stones that do not conform to these standards cannot be called TRUE Hearts and Arrows. There should be no variation in both the hearts and the arrow patterns. Quality A, B, C or 1, 2, 3 do not exist. They are either TRUE Hearts and Arrows diamonds or they are NOT. These standards need to be maintained just as they have in Japan where the standard was set and I believe all should maintain. Today Sarin, Helium and Ogi instruments are used to read and analyze measurements, angles and percentages. This is not a method to indicate the perfection of cutting. These machines show the perfection of the engineering in the equipment and the maintenance of the equipment. Today's cutting equipment is a lot more exacting. What is more important is that the equipment is in good condition and that the cutting plate skyf (pronounced skife like knife) and tang (tool to hold the diamond) are true and level (Fig.1b) with each other so that there is very little deviation in the measurements when the stone is completed. The larger the stone the more visible this deviation can possibly be. Note in (Fig's.1a 1c) that the cutter can dial in the angle for the main pavilion or crown angles for the process of blocking out the stone in 8 cut. As you can see this is not entirely up to the cutter but also the engineers from the maintenance dept.
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- Angles (balance between Crown and Pavilion)
- Consistency of Heart pattern (super symmetry also known as optical symmetry)
- Symmetry (external meet point symmetry)
- Excellent or Ideal polish with very good luster